
The closer it was to summer, the more I had been waiting for another bike touring trip on the west coast of Ireland. I felt suffocated in the city, and needed a change, a break from daily routine, bikepacking, although it’s not an easy thing, gives me a sense of freedom, each day is different, and each day brings a new adventure. Yes, it’s not easy, it all looks beautiful on photos and social media, beautiful and romantic sunsets and sunrises by the ocean, sandy beaches with crystal clear water, cycling every day, breathtaking views, etc.
It’s all true, but you must also know that such a trip is also a considerable effort, and can be tough. Unpredictable Irish weather, virtually non-stop mountain route in the West, finding places to sleep is not easy, Ireland is practically one giant farm/pasture, you have to struggle to find a piece of flat land that isn’t fenced and doesn’t belong to someone. I had to learn to think ahead and use Google maps effectively. Every day around 4-5 pm planning begins, I need to buy water, something to eat and find a place for a tent. Shopping is usually easy, Ireland is not Africa, but taught by the unpleasant experiences from last year, I knew that I have to be careful, you can cycle almost all day through Connemara without seeing people, a petrol station or a shop, driving a car you may not feel it like that, but cycling is completely different, especially when it’s hot.
Cycling 30-40 km on a flat is not a problem, but in the mountains and in the heat on a heavily loaded bike, IT IS completely different, draining as fuck. And looking for a place for a tent, another tough task – this year I was much more confident, it was much easier for me, I practically got rid of the stress associated with it, and I knew that I would eventually find a spot. I always try to pitch a tent away from people, but in a remote place, it’s not always possible. But you can try it in an old cemetery or next to the ruins of a castle or church, there will always be a solution. I don’t really like paid campsites, too loud, too many people. Yea, sure, I can take a shower, charge power banks and wash socks or t-shirt, that’s the only reason why I go there. I also haven’t slept at a B&B or hostel this year, it’s just too expensive here in Ireland and my student budget is barely enough for my daily expenses.
Wild Atlantic Way
One of the biggest differences from last year I noticed right away was the large number of people doing the same as me – bike touring or bikepacking. Every day I met cyclists from all over Europe, we stopped for a moment sharing our impressions and experiences. One of the coolest moments was meeting Jessie, an Australian girl I met at a fantastic campsite Purecamping in Co Clare. A fkn brave girl, she travels by bike through the Wild Atlantic Way on her own, I love meeting people who do some crazy shit in their lives, Jessie is definitely such a person, we’re friends to this day.
Got to Belfast. This city definitely needs more bicycle shops, I lost count of how many of them I called asking for a spoke repair, all booked even for a week and a half ahead, finally, someone agreed to help me, I left my bike with him and, having two hours, I went for a walk around the city.
But before that, in a small village in the middle of nowhere, I met the Irish champion of bicycle racing – Kevin McCambridge. Thanks, man, for help with brake pads and a really nice chat!
Before I left home I had a “crazy” idea: pitch a tent at the Cliffs of Moher, I knew it was possible and that others had already done it. And I actually did it! In the beginning, I wasn’t sure if I could do it, the wind was really strong all day, especially strong on the coast, but after a few kilometres of pushing the bike (you can’t ride along the cliffs, the path is too rough) it turned out that the wind died and it got quiet and peaceful, I only heard the gentle sound of the waves crashing against the rocks 200 meters below, and the super low flying birds, right on the tent, a wonderful surreal experience, an unforgettable night.
Then there was The Burren, a part of the country that look like something out of this planet, I wanted to explore it a little better this year, but the problems with the bicycle forced me to go to Galway.
Last night in western Ireland I slept by the well-preserved castle. But time to go home, I’m cycling back via Athlone and the Royal Canal Greenway, easy flat route
Northern Ireland
This year I had excellent weather, it was raining only one or two days out of three weeks. Unfortunately, due to financial reasons, I had to shorten the trip and come back to Dublin. But after returning home, I knew that this is not the end of this year’s adventures, I wanna more! I wanted to finish what I started 3 years ago – around Ireland by bike, the missing piece was the coast of Northern Ireland. After a week at home, I got on the train to Coleraine and from there went on my bike again to look for adventures. And beaches, and nice places to sleep, and views to shoot, and meet new people.
First stop and night: Giant Causeway (UNESCO World Heritage Site), a place that looks like a giant carpet with huge steps reaching into the Irish Sea. The dramatic sight has inspired legends of giants striding over the sea to Scotland.
Due to the higher population density, it’s much more difficult to wild camp in Northern Ireland, although I must admit that in the inland of the country further from the coast it is probably easier. Turned out that I spent a few nights illegally on the National Trust sites, well …
The first night right next to the Giant Causeway was especially beautiful and then the only night and a place that gave a feeling of wilderness and seclusion was not far from Kearney Village right on the seashore. A week in Northern Ireland allowed me to fully understand why they called the Wild Atlantic Way Wild.




This morning I took pictures of one of the most beautiful sunrises I’ve ever seen, about 15 mins later, my mother called: – Dad is dead, he died this morning…
I couldn’t help feeling that the moment I was admiring this amazing sunrise, he was dying….
I packed up, I have two more days cycling…