Bikepacking Wild Atlantic Way 2021
In 2020, I went to the west of Ireland for the first time, packed my bike on the train and got off in Galway. A week in the saddle through the beautiful Connemara and Achill Island, I rode my bike north along the coast and the Wild Atlantic Way. Already then I knew that I would definitely come back. And a year later I did so.
On June 24, I arrived by train to Cork, from which I cycled to Kinsale, where the Wild Atlantic Way officially begins, the longest coastal route in Europe – 2600 km along the west coast of Ireland, one of the most beautiful corners of our world.
I am not a writer, I cannot describe what I saw beautifully or how fantastic and helpful people are that I met on my way, I can certainly say that it was the most beautiful 38 days in my life. Yes, 38 days of daily riding, struggling with the weather and myself, problems with the bicycle, finding places for a tent and even with water when I forgot how deserted Connemara can be. But every second was worth it. West Cork, Kerry, Connemara dazzle with their beauty, and The Burren! Suddenly I felt like I was teleported to another planet, something unbelievable how cosmically beautiful this place looks. Drove 2100 km, approx 19 km elevation gain, got 8 punctures (!), mainly wild camping, but also some B&Bs and hostels.
Bikepacking is about packing as little and lightly as possible. So three t-shirts, one long-sleeved very small and light sweatshirt, three pairs of socks and boxers, waterproof overtrousers and a jacket were all I had to wear. Washed it all whenever possible, in a sink in B&B, in a stream even in the Atlantic.
Plus a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat and a small cooking kit.
I’m taking you on a journey through the Wild Atlantic Way
VALENTIA ISLAND
On Valentia Island I got on a ferry where I met a nice girl from Switzerland who works selling tickets, the cruise lasted very short so we didn’t talk for a long time, and I wanted to ask what a girl from Switzerland is doing at the end of Europe
Valentia Island is one of Ireland’s most westerly points. It lies off the Iveragh Peninsula in the southwest of County Kerry.
There are dinosaur footprints on the island. The Tetrapod imprints are thought to date from Devonian times – somewhere between 350 and 370 million years ago.
Geokaun Mountain and Cliffs
It was a hard climb, so steep I had to push the bike. But look at these views! It was worth it!
CAHA PASS
Spectacular views! Especially the tunnels dug in the mountains! A real pleasure to pass underneath!
Looking for a place to camp
KERRY
Kerry is probably the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen (though Connemara might disagree…)
Conor Pass
The Conor Pass is one of the highest mountain passes in Ireland with the most dramatic and scenic way of crossing from the south to north coast of the Dingle Peninsula.
Conor Pass for someone like me, who is not a super experienced and strong cyclist, was a real challenge, especially riding with all gear strapped to the bike. About 7 km of steep climbing up the hill, it wasn’t easy, there was no reward in the form of beautiful views, but the clouds and fog gave these views a beautiful mystical and unforgettable atmosphere.
Bridges of Ross
Loop Head Peninsula – County Clare
The Bridges of Ross were originally three rock arches that spanned deep coastal incisions like bridges. Nowadays there are only one of these “bridges” – the other two dropped to the sea.
It was the first really difficult day, raining all day, strong wind, and I had problems with gears. After I saw Bridges it started to get late and I couldn’t find a place to camp. After a few kilometres of cycling, I found something that looked like quarries, right next to the Atlantic coast and cliffs. Completely drenched, set up camp. The first time I felt Wild Atlantic could be really wild.
Some random and cool pictures taken in different places during the trip
On my way north towards the Cliffs of Moher I passed another beautiful place with history – Spanish Point. It’s so named because of the Spaniards who were buried here after the wreck of their Armada ships along the coast in 1588. One of the ships was wrecked on the reefs to landward of Mutton Island (3km/2 miles) offshore. More than a thousand men drowned, and many of their bodies were carried by the tide to Spanish Point. Today, you can hire a currach in the fishing village of Quilty and visit the site of the wreck.
I met another solo traveller there, a girl on a motorcycle, she wasn’t too talkative
Cliffs of Moher and The Burren
The Cliffs are part of the Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark. The Cliffs rise to 702 feet (214 m) at their highest point and range for 8 km (5 miles) over the Atlantic ocean. The word “Burren” comes from the Irish word “Boíreann” meaning a rocky place.
I got to the Cliffs of Moher! It took me 19 days from Cork, I’m definitely not the fastest cyclist in Ireland but that was the plan, taking pictures of beautiful places while riding a bike, it wasn’t a race. A very emotional experience, I didn’t think I would make it this far, honestly. For quite a long time I stood alone admiring the majestic view. The Cliffs of Moher is one of the most famous and visited places in Ireland. Breathtaking view of the edge of the earth over 200 meters high.
The next day, The Burren! Incredible! At one point I felt as if someone teleported me to another planet, a sudden change of landscape to a cosmic one, like from Mars or something. Beautiful unearthly views! Once again during this trip, I felt that such moments are worth living for, really!
The charms of wild camping
Camping in the wild is not something I have been very experienced in, Irish law does not help with that, according to it it is forbidden and considering that Ireland is one big farm and most of the land is privately owned, it was not easy for me to find a place for a tent. But as with everything else in life, everything can be learned over time and everything becomes easier. After the first week of travel, finding charming and remote places was getting easier. Besides, one very important thing for me – wild camping means that I have peace and quiet, there are no people who drink until the morning and have fun (well, I did it myself most of my (previous) life ) but after a whole day on the bike, rest is very important. So after the initial problems, I started to like sleeping in the “wild”, away from people. Besides, look at these pictures – isn’t it beautiful ?!
Although I must say that it all looks beautiful and romantic in the pictures, everyday travel can be a challenge and difficult. Rain, ignorance of tide hours, dissatisfied landowners, small worms crawling everywhere, packing a wet tent etc, etc. But no regrets, it’s all part of the adventure
This is probably the most remote and “wildest” place I put up my tent, a small island in County Galway. Far from people, on the Atlantic coast beyond which America was somewhere.
Discovered this place by accident, the heatwave came to Ireland, it was really hot, I dreamed about jumping into the ocean and swim, was looking for ANY beach on the map, zooming I found this beautiful place, which turned out to be also an ideal place for camping – Saint John’s Point Lighthouse, Co. Donegal.
Doolough Valley – another beautiful place with history. As I pushed my bike through the stream and rocks, pitched the tent, it turned out that the little flying monsters, midges, started a massive attack! It was really bad! Thousands of them in the air, in the nose, throat and lungs, the anti midges spray didn’t help. I had no choice, packed quickly and went looking for a new place to sleep, and it was already late …
It’s not always easy…
Galway
I got to Galway, about half way behind me. A few days earlier, I thought that when I got here, I could finish the adventure without regret, I did enough. But no! I was still feeling very good, both mentally and physically. As Trent Reznor sang: “Nothing can stop me now!” So be it, beautiful Connemara next!
Sunsets and sunrises
One of the highlights of such an adventure is that you can watch magical sunrises and sunsets almost every day, and the ones on the Atlantic coast are so beautiful! Asked one of my friends: can one get bored with watching the sunrise and sunset. We agreed that it’s probably not possible
Tullan Strand and Fairy Bridges, Co Donegal
The Fairy Bridges is a natural arch in the cliffs, with blow holes that date as far back as the 1700s. It is believed that locals thought The Fairy Bridges to be haunted by the fairies, which resulted in them being named The Fairy Bridges. Due to the peculiar rock formations, there are a series of natural blow or puffing holes that cause the seawater, under suitable tidal conditions, to crash through and blow water upwards, creating an impressive spectacle.
Mizen Head!
The official end (or start when you start here) of the Wild Atlantic Way. The weather ruined the joy and satisfaction a bit – very strong wind, a storm was coming which later in the evening turned out to be really strong, fortunately, I decided to stay at a B&B.
But the adventure isn’t over yet. Northern Ireland is not far away and there are also beautiful places to see.
The Giants Causeway and The Dark Hedges
The Giants Causeway comprises around 40,000 thousand of mostly hexagonal basalt columns descending gently into the sea. Depending on who you believe, the stones were formed either by an underwater volcano’s geological actions or by a giant named Finn McCool, who lived and battled along the north Antrim Coast. It’s hard to believe that it was nature that created it and not man.
The Dark Hedges – This beautiful avenue of beech trees was planted by the Stuart family in the eighteenth century.
It was intended as a compelling landscape feature to impress visitors as they approached the entrance to their Georgian mansion, Gracehill House. Two centuries later, the trees remain a magnificent sight and have become one of the most photographed natural phenomena in Northern Ireland. Iconic trees have been used as a filming location in HBO’s epic series Game of Thrones, representing the Kingsroad.
And finally, for those who are curious who is behind the camera
That’s it, the end of a photographic journey through western Ireland.
Thanks to everyone who came here!
If you are interested in buying any of the photos as a high-quality print in any size, please contact me via Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/reznorek/
I still take a lot of pictures, even decided to radically change my life after returning from the Wild Atlantic Way – I returned to school, a one-year photography course at one of Dublin’s colleges. Exciting